Road tripping a handpicked collection of India’s most iconic places on a Royal Enfield
TLDR: A 30-day motorcycle trip across India costs around ₹200,000 ($2,400) for a solo rider on a mid-range budget. That covers bike rental, fuel, food, accommodation and a buffer for breakdowns. Best timing: June-September for the Himalayas, October-April for the south. Best bike: Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 for the mountains, Thunderbird 350 for highways. I’ve been riding India since 2018 and this is the guide I wish I’d read before I figured it out for myself.
Join me this summer on The Great Spiti Valley Motorcycle Adventure
I first crossed India on my Dawes Galaxy bicycle on a round-the-world tour. I knew then that there was more for me on the subcontinent. In 2018 I moved to Goa, and I’ve been living here as an expat ever since.
Since then, I’ve ridden thousands of kilometres across India on Royal Enfields. A loop of the northern Himalayas with my sister. A solo ride from Goa to Rishikesh through Rajasthan. Countless shorter trips through the Western Ghats. I also design and lead guided motorcycle tours of the Indian Himalayas.
This guide is built on those years of experience. It covers the practical stuff: routes, costs, timing, bikes, gear and the things nobody tells you until you’re already on the road.
Pick Your Season First
India is big. The climate varies wildly from the mountains to the coast. Get the timing wrong and you’ll spend your trip soaked, snowed in, or melting.
Indian Himalayas (Ladakh, Spiti, Kashmir): June to September. Roads open, passes clear, conditions optimal. Outside this window, expect closures, snow and landslides. I went bikepacking Manali to Leh in October, and it was just about OK. Wet in Himachal Pradesh, dry in Ladakh, snowing at Tanglang La.
South India (Goa, Kerala, Tamil Nadu): October to April. Warm, dry, sunny. Temperatures around 25-35°C. Outside of this, it’s monsoon. Flooded roads, low visibility, wet to the bone.
Rajasthan and Central India: October to March. The desert heat from April onwards is brutal. 45°C days are common and riding becomes more endurance test than adventure.
The smart move: start in the south in October, ride north, and arrive in the mountains by June. Follow the seasons and enjoy the best conditions across the country.
Choose Your Bike
The short answer is Royal Enfield. They’re everywhere. Every mechanic in India knows how to fix one. Parts cost next to nothing. And they’re built for the kind of long-distance, bad-road riding that India demands.
For the Himalayas: Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 or 411. Purpose-built adventure bikes. High clearance, strong torque, tough suspension. The 450 is the better machine, the 411 is cheaper and proven. Read my Himalayan 450 review | Himalayan 411 review
For highways and plains: Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350. 20-litre tank, wide seat, cruiser bars. Built for long days on tarmac. I rode mine for 30,000 km across India. Read my Thunderbird 350 review
For budget riders: The Hero Xpulse 200 is lighter and cheaper. Decent off-road but underpowered for highway touring with luggage.
Rent or buy? For trips under 30 days, rent. Expect to pay around ₹1,500 per day for a Royal Enfield 350 with insurance. For longer trips, buying second-hand in Delhi saves money and you can sell at the end.
How to buy a second-hand Royal Enfield in Delhi’s Karol Bagh market
Plan Your Route
I use the term “all India” loosely. It comes from the “All India Permit” sticker on cargo trucks. In practice, most riders cover a region or a long-distance loop rather than the entire country.
Here are the classic routes:
Ladakh Circuit (14-21 days)
Delhi, Manali, Rohtang, Keylong, Sarchu, Leh, Khardung La, Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake, return via Tanglang La. The big one. High altitude, thin air, prayer flags and silence. Best: June-September.
Spiti Valley Loop (10-14 days)
Manali, Rohtang, Gramphu, Kunzum La, Kaza, Tabo, Nako, Kalpa, Shimla. Remote, raw, and less tourist traffic than Ladakh. Some of the most dramatic riding in the world. Join me on The Great Spiti Valley Motorcycle Adventure
Rajasthan Desert Ride (10-14 days)
Delhi, Jaipur, Pushkar, Udaipur, Chittorgarh, Jaisalmer, Bikaner. Forts, desert stars, camel carts and sweeping tarmac. Romantic and rugged. Best: October-March.
Coastal South India (10-14 days)
Goa, Gokarna, Hampi, Kerala backwaters. Jungle backroads, clifftop views, beach towns. Mellow and beautiful. Best: November-February.
North East India (14-21 days)
Guwahati, Shillong, Cherrapunji, Kaziranga, Tawang. Off the beaten track. Fewer riders, more adventure. Permits required for some areas.
Full circumnavigation: Six to seven months for a proper loop. Twelve months for deeper exploration with layovers where the place grabs you. If you have the time, this is the way to go.
Route Maps
I’ve mapped two of my India rides. Click through to explore the stops, daily segments and riding highlights.
My Northbound Route: Goa to Rishikesh
Mandrem, Rajapur, Wai, Aurangabad, Ajanta Caves, Omkareshwar, Mandu, Udaipur, Chittorgarh, Pushkar, Agra, Haldwani, Rishikesh, Delhi.
My Northern Loop: Delhi to Chandigarh
Delhi, Rishikesh, Waknaghat, Jawalamukhi, Dharamshala (McLeod Ganj), Gurdaspur, Amritsar, Chandigarh.
What It Costs: 30-Day Budget Breakdown
Here’s my average cost estimate for a solo rider on a mid-range budget. Prices in INR, GBP and USD.
| Category | INR | GBP | USD | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bike rental | ₹45,000 | £428 | $540 | ₹1,500/day for a Royal Enfield 350 with insurance |
| Fuel | ₹10,000 | £95 | $120 | ~5,000 km at ₹96/litre, 35-40 km/l |
| Accommodation | ₹90,000 | £856 | $1,080 | ₹3,000/night for guesthouses and boutique stays |
| Food and drink | ₹45,000 | £428 | $540 | ₹1,500/day including chai, cafes and local meals |
| Permits and tolls | ₹1,500 | £14 | $18 | Inner Line Permits, tolls, national park fees |
| Maintenance | ₹2,000 | £19 | $24 | Oil top-up, puncture repair, chain cleaning |
| Mobile data / SIM | ₹600 | £6 | $7 | 1-month prepaid Jio or Airtel SIM |
| Backup transport | ₹2,000 | £19 | $24 | Train or bus in case of breakdown |
| Emergency buffer | ₹5,000 | £48 | $60 | Spare cash for the unexpected |
| Total | ₹201,100 | £1,913 | $2,413 | Full mid-range budget for 30 days |
Riding with a pillion saves on accommodation. Most rooms are priced for two. Food is separate though. Unless you’re feeling generous, your passenger budgets for their own meals.
Budget travellers can cut this by half. Stay in hostels, eat at dhabas, hire a cheaper bike. I’ve met riders doing India on ₹3,000 per day.
Essential Gear
Pack light, waterproof and modular. Here’s the core kit I’ve relied on across thousands of kilometres.
Full gear checklist: My Essential Motorcycle Trip Packing List
| Item | Brand / Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Helmet | Givi or equivalent | ISI-certified full-face with good ventilation |
| Riding jacket | Belstaff | Armoured, mesh panels for airflow, CE-rated protection |
| Riding pants | Rynox / Raida / Viaterra | Knee and hip armour, rain liners |
| Gloves | Korda / TVS / DSG | Full-finger, knuckle protection, good grip |
| Boots | Belstaff / Royal Enfield | Water-resistant, ankle-length minimum |
| Rain gear | Decathlon / Viaterra | Lightweight, packable waterproof jacket and pants |
| Luggage | Rynox Nomad / Viaterra Claw | Modular soft bags or panniers for long-haul |
| Tool kit | Generic / Mototech | Spanners, pliers, tyre levers, chain lube, zip ties, puncture kit |
| First aid | Custom | Altitude meds, rehydration salts, painkillers, plasters |
| Navigation | Quadlock mount + offline maps | MapOut or OsmAnd. Protect your phone from engine vibration |
| Hydration | CamelBak / Decathlon | 3L pack or insulated bottle. The heat will drain you |
Practical Tips from the Road
Can you fix it? The biggest difference between bicycle touring and motorcycle touring is the machine. If you can fix it, you can ride it. Learn basic maintenance before you go. Change oil, patch a tyre, adjust a chain. In India, mechanics are everywhere, but knowing the basics saves time and money.
Documents you need: Valid passport, Indian visa (e-visa works for most nationalities), International Driving Permit, photocopies of everything. For Ladakh and parts of the North East, you need Inner Line Permits. Apply in advance or arrange through your hotel in Leh.
How to apply for an International Driving Permit in the UK
Night riding: Don’t. Indian highways after dark are dangerous. Unlit trucks, animals, potholes you can’t see. Ride dawn to dusk and stop.
Fuel stops: Fill up whenever you can, especially in the mountains. The gap between petrol stations in Ladakh and Spiti can be 200+ km. Carry extra fuel.
Trust the process. Pack a bag, book a flight. Everything is possible in India. With patience, a flexible attitude and a fistful of rupees, doors open. Minds too. And things happen that no amount of planning could have predicted.
Riding With a Pillion
My sister Lucy tagged along for the first two months. She had a break between work contracts and felt the call.
Travelling India with a pillion changes the ride. You carry more weight, burn more fuel, and need to think about comfort for two. But you share the costs, share the laughs, and have someone to hold your chai while you fix a puncture.
Our plan was simple: fly to Delhi, buy a Royal Enfield, ride to the mountains. And that’s exactly what we did. For those new to India, I’d recommend the same approach. Bold action. See what happens.
Read my guide to buying a second-hand Royal Enfield in Delhi
FAQs
What’s the best bike for a road trip in India?
Royal Enfield Thunderbird or Classic for highway touring. Himalayan 411 or 450 for the mountains. If you can stretch the budget, the 450 is the better machine. I rode my Thunderbird for 30,000 km across India and it never let me down.
How much does a bike trip across India cost?
Around ₹200,000 ($2,400 / £1,900) for 30 days solo, mid-range budget. Covers bike rental, fuel, accommodation, food, permits and a buffer. I’ve met riders doing it on half that by staying in hostels and eating at dhabas.
Is it safe to ride a motorcycle in India alone?
I’ve done it for years without serious incident. Use common sense. Avoid night riding. Trust your instincts. The roads are chaotic but the people are helpful. I’ve had mechanics fix my bike by the roadside for the price of a chai.
When is the best time to ride in India?
Himalayas: June to September. Rajasthan: October to March. South India and Goa: November to February. Get this wrong and you’ll spend your trip soaked or melting.
Do I need a special licence to ride in India?
You need an International Driving Permit from your home country. Takes 10 minutes to apply. Rental companies sometimes skip the check. Police won’t. Get one.
What are the best motorcycle routes in India?
Ladakh for high-altitude silence and prayer flags. Spiti for remote, raw Himalayan riding. Rajasthan for desert forts and sweeping tarmac. Coastal south India for beaches and backwaters. I’ve ridden all of them.
Should I join a guided tour or go solo?
Look, I used to resist organised fun. Solo cycling across the world for years will do that. But after leading Himalayan trips, I’ve learned that the right group and the right route make the whole thing better. Shared logistics, shared breakdowns, shared campfire stories. My review of guided motorcycle tours in India
Finally, as they say on the subcontinent, Happy Journey!
Share your tips on how to plan an all-India bike trip in the comments: