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India by Motorcycle

Routes, Reviews and Everything You Need to Ride

By JT, founder of Really Big Bike Ride. I moved to India for a six-month motorcycle trip in 2018. I’m still here. Last updated July 2026.

Disclosure: this page contains GetYourGuide affiliate links, marked [GYG]. If you book through one, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only link things I’d actually send a friend to.

india by mororcycle with adv guide james thomas
over the top: 4850m at Baralachala Pass

TLDR

Motorcycle touring in India means picking your region first: the Himalayas for the ride of your life, Rajasthan for forts and desert, Goa and the south for an easy warm loop. Go guided for your first Himalayan trip, DIY if you’ve toured before. Budget roughly £150-280/day guided, under £65/day self-supported. Routes, bike reviews, costs, permits and my own tours are all below.

Over eight years I’ve ridden thousands of kilometres across this place. Snow-capped passes in Ladakh, desert forts in Rajasthan, jungle backroads in the Western Ghats, beach towns along the Konkan coast.

I now live in Goa and design guided motorcycle tours of the Indian Himalayas. This page is your starting point, whether you’re planning a two-week Ladakh trip or a six-month circumnavigation.


Why Ride India by Motorcycle

You move at your own pace. You feel the country, smell it, hear it. The quiet of a mountain pass at 5,000 metres. The chaos of a city intersection where a truck, three rickshaws and a cow are all negotiating right of way at the same time.

You’ll ride roads that disappear into rivers. You’ll drink chai at a roadside stall and end up staying three hours because the owner’s cousin has a guesthouse you should see.

It’s also hard. It’s hot. The roads can be terrible. You’ll get lost, you might get sick. Ride with patience and an open mind, and India rewards you like nowhere else.

A Short and Epic History of Royal Enfield: 120 Years of Grit, Glory and Thump

exploring the pink city in rajasthan on a bullet 350
exploring the Pink City on a Classic 350

How to Get Started

Guided or DIY, decide this first. Go guided if it’s your first time in Indian traffic or you’re heading into the high Himalayas, permits, altitude and breakdowns are handled for you. Go DIY if you’ve toured before and want the freedom to change plans on a whim. I’ve written a full honest review of guided motorcycle tours in India and a complete DIY planning guide if you want either one done properly.

Visa: Most nationalities can get an e-visa online. A 30-day e-tourist visa costs around $25. For longer trips, apply for a six-month or one-year tourist visa at your nearest Indian consulate.

Licence: You need an International Driving Permit (IDP) from your home country alongside your regular licence. Rental companies don’t always check, police will. How to apply for an IDP in the UK

Permits for the Himalayas: Ladakh (Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri) and parts of Spiti require Inner Line Permits. Guided tours arrange these for you. DIY, sort them locally in Leh, budget a day for it.

RegionBest months
Himalayas (Ladakh)June to September
Spiti ValleySeptember
RajasthanOctober to March
South India and GoaNovember to February

Guided vs DIY

Guided tourDIY / self-supported
Daily cost£150-280/day, all-inRoughly ₹200,000 ($2,400 / £1,900) for 30 days, mid-range
What’s includedBike, fuel, support vehicle, permits, most meals, guideWhatever you arrange yourself
Best forFirst-timers, high Himalaya, limited time offExperienced tourers, open schedules, tighter budgets

Bike: Rent a Royal Enfield for trips under 30 days, budget ₹1,500/day for a 350 or Himalayan. For longer trips, buy second-hand in Delhi and sell when you’re done, that’s what I did. How to buy a second-hand Royal Enfield in Karol Bagh, Delhi

Safety and altitude: Above 3,500 metres, altitude sickness doesn’t care how fit you are. Build in acclimatisation days before a high pass and know the symptoms. Stomach trouble is common too, eat where locals eat, carry rehydration salts. Get travel insurance that explicitly covers motorcycling at altitude, check the policy, not just the sales page.

three motorcycle riders in the himalayas riding towards the zojila pass
quick selfie on the road to Zoji La; gateway to Ladakh

Best Motorcycle Routes in India

Leh-Ladakh Circuit (14-21 days)
The big one. Delhi to Manali, over Rohtang, through Keylong and Sarchu to Leh. Then Khardung La, Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake, and back. High altitude, thin air, broken roads and the kind of silence that stays with you. Best: June to September. This is the route behind my Great Himalayan Motorcycle Tour.

Spiti Valley Loop (10-14 days)
Manali to Kaza via Kunzum La. Tabo, Nako, Kalpa, back to Shimla. Remote, raw, less touristed than Ladakh. Some of the most dramatic mountain riding anywhere. Join me on The Great Spiti Valley Motorcycle Adventure

Kashmir and the Himalayan Kingdoms (14 days)
Srinagar to Leh via the Zoji La pass. Kargil, Lamayuru, the ancient monasteries of Ladakh. I led a custom trip through here with two friends and it was the ride of a lifetime. Read about my Himalayan Kingdoms motorcycle adventure

Rajasthan Desert Ride (10-14 days)
Jaipur, Pushkar, Udaipur, Chittorgarh, Jaisalmer, Bikaner. Desert forts, camel carts, cold desert stars and sweeping tarmac. As my friend Iuliia said at the time, “It’s like Mad Max meets Lawrence of Arabia.”

Goa to Gokarna Coastal Ride (3-5 days)
Jungle backroads, clifftop views, sleepy beach towns. Short ride, big atmosphere. I’ve made this trip half a dozen times and I keep coming back.

North East India (14-21 days)
Guwahati, Shillong, Cherrapunji, Kaziranga, Tawang. Fewer riders, more adventure, permits required. The last frontier of Indian motorcycle touring.

two himalayan 411 adv touring bikes on the zoji la in kashmir
riding high with adam and stu in kashmir

Extend the Trip: Things to Book Around Your Ride

Most riders don’t fly in, ride, and fly straight home. A few days either side, especially around Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, or down in Goa, is worth planning for. These aren’t things I run myself, so I book them the same way you would, through GetYourGuide.

None of these replace the ride. They’re the bit either side of it, for the days your bike is parked.


Royal Enfield Motorcycle Reviews

Real-world reviews based on thousands of kilometres across India.

Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 Review
40 HP, 17-litre tank, 230mm ground clearance. I tested it across Goa and the Western Ghats. If I had to pick one bike for a Himalayan expedition, this is it. It’s what I’m riding on my tours this year.

Royal Enfield Himalayan 411 Review
My long-term review after 15,000 km across Ladakh, Kashmir and Spiti. The OG Himalayan. Proven, reliable, easy to fix anywhere. Still a solid choice if you’re on a budget.

Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 Review
My eight-year, 30,000 km review. The bike that started my India life. Big tank, wide seat, cruiser bars. Built for long highway days with a full load of luggage.

Royal Enfield Bear 650 Review
Retro scrambler style with a 650cc twin. A comfortable, capable machine for loaded touring. Buy this if you want heritage cool with genuine road ability.

Royal Enfield 350 Review: Classic vs Bullet
The OG. The bike that made India famous for motorcycle travel. A comparison of the Classic and Bullet 350 for anyone choosing between them.

bullet 350 at pushkar lake on a road trip from jaipur
bullet 350 at pushkar lake on a road trip from jaipur

My India Motorcycle Adventures

I’ve been riding India since 2018. These are the trips that shaped this site.

Himalayan Kingdoms: Ladakh and Kashmir
A two-week guided trip I designed for two friends. Tanglang La, Khardung La, the ancient monasteries, the silence of the Ladakhi plateau. Read the full trip report

All-India Motorbike Tour
My solo ride from Goa to Rishikesh through Rajasthan, central India and the foothills of the Himalayas. Three months, two wheels, one Thunderbird 350. Read the planning guide

Buying a Bullet in Karol Bagh
Before the rides, there was the bike. In 2018 I returned to India with my sister, flew to Delhi, walked into Karol Bagh, and bought a Royal Enfield. The full story

Riding a Royal Enfield in the Himalayas
The ride that started it all. Rishikesh, the Ganga, thalis, and then north into the mountains with a head full of dreams and a fistful of rupees. Read the story

james thomas adventure travel guide and writer reviews the royal enfield himalayan 411 in ladakh
Himalayan 411 on tour: a roadside selfie in ladakh

Gear, Guides and Practical Resources

Essential Motorcycle Trip Packing List — What to pack for any terrain, from Himalayan passes to coastal highways.

How to Ride a Motorcycle in India: A Practical Guide for UK, US and EU Riders — Traffic rules, road conditions, what to expect and how to stay safe.

How to Export a Royal Enfield from India — Done with your trip? Here’s how to ship your bike home.

How to Apply for an International Driving Permit — Ten minutes of paperwork that saves hours of hassle with Indian police.

Funny Indian Road Signs — Not a practical guide. Just a collection of the best road signs India has to offer. “After drinking whiskey, driving riskey.”

Adam enjoying the freedom of holding a valid international driving permit in the Indian Himalayas
Adam soaking up the view in Ladakh

Guided Motorcycle Tours

I used to resist organised fun. Solo cycling across the world for years will do that. But after leading trips through the Himalayas, I’ve learned the right group and the right route make the experience better.

I run two small-group guided motorcycle tours a year through the Indian Himalayas:

Not sure which? I’ve written a straight comparison. Or read my review of guided motorcycle tours in India for how to think about operators generally.

a royal enfield himalayan in the indian himayalas with James Thomas, ADV Guide in Belstaff leathers
Leading the way: JT with the Himalayan 411 on the Manali – Leh Highway

FAQs: Riding India by Motorcycle

Is India a good country for motorcycle touring?

Yes, it’s one of the best and most demanding motorcycle touring destinations in the world. The riding varies from Himalayan mountain passes to desert forts to coastal backroads, all inside one country. It rewards riders who can handle unpredictable roads and a slower-than-expected pace.

Is India safe for motorcycle travel?

I’ve been riding here since 2018 without serious incident. The roads are unpredictable and the traffic is chaotic. Ride during daylight, wear proper gear, trust your instincts. In remote areas, if you break down, someone will stop to help before you’ve even finished swearing.

What’s the best motorcycle for Indian roads?

Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 for the mountains. Thunderbird or Classic 350 for highway touring. Hero Xpulse 200 if you’re on a tight budget and travelling light. Royal Enfields are the default because mechanics and parts are literally everywhere.

When is the best time to ride in India?

Himalayas: June to September. Rajasthan: October to March. South India and Goa: November to February. Get the timing wrong and you’ll spend your trip soaked, snowed in, or melting.

How much does a motorcycle trip in India cost?

DIY, around ₹200,000 ($2,400 / £1,900) for 30 days on a mid-range budget, covering bike rental, fuel, food, accommodation and a buffer for breakdowns. Guided, expect roughly £150-280 a day, all-in.

Should I rent or buy a motorcycle in India?

Under 30 days, rent, simpler, no hassle with registration or resale. Over 30 days, buy a second-hand Royal Enfield in Delhi and sell it when you’re done, it’s cheaper and you get a bike set up exactly how you want it.

Do I need an International Driving Permit?

Yes. It takes 10 minutes to apply. Rental companies sometimes skip the check, but police won’t.

What permits do I need for the Himalayas specifically?

Inner Line Permits are required for parts of Ladakh (Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri) and parts of Spiti. Guided tours arrange these for you. DIY, sort them locally in Leh, budget a day for it.

Should I join a guided motorcycle tour or ride solo?

Solo gives you freedom and solitude. A guided tour gives you local knowledge, mechanical support and someone to share the campfire with. If it’s your first time in India or you’re heading into the high Himalayas, a guided tour lets you focus on the riding instead of the logistics.


Start your India motorcycle journey. Browse the blog for more two-wheeled inspiration. Follow along on Instagram or Facebook.

The Great Spiti Valley Motorcycle Adventure

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13 Days | 1 Rest Day | 1,900+ km of Pure Himalayan Adventure

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