I moved to India for a six-month motorcycle trip. That was 2018. I’m still here. Over eight years, I’ve ridden thousands of kilometres across this place. Snow-capped passes in Ladakh, desert forts in Rajasthan, jungle backroads in the Western Ghats, beach towns along the Konkan coast.
I now live in Goa and design guided motorcycle tours of the Indian Himalayas.
This page is your starting point. Whether you’re planning a two-week Ladakh trip or a six-month circumnavigation, you’ll find routes, bike reviews, gear advice and hard-won lessons from the road.
Why Ride India by Motorcycle
You move at your own pace. You feel the country, smell it, hear it. The quiet of a mountain pass at 5,000 metres. The chaos of a city intersection where a truck, three rickshaws and a cow are all negotiating right of way at the same time.
You’ll ride roads that disappear into rivers. You’ll drink chai at roadside stalls and end up staying for three hours because the owner’s cousin has a guesthouse you should see. There are things so uniquely Indian that you have to experience them to believe them.
It’s also hard. It’s hot. The roads can be terrible. You will get lost. You might get sick. But ride with patience and an open mind, and India rewards you like nowhere else.
A Short and Epic History of Royal Enfield: 120 Years of Grit, Glory and Thump
How to Get Started
Visa: Most nationalities can get an e-visa online. A 30-day e-tourist visa costs around $25. For longer trips, apply for a six-month or one-year tourist visa at your nearest Indian consulate.
Licence: You need an International Driving Permit (IDP) from your home country. In practice, rental companies don’t always check, but police will. Get one. It takes 10 minutes to apply. How to apply for an IDP in the UK
Bike: Rent a Royal Enfield for trips under 30 days. Budget ₹1,500/day for a 350 or Himalayan. For longer trips, buy second-hand in Delhi and sell when you’re done. How to buy a second-hand Royal Enfield in Karol Bagh, Delhi
When to go: The Himalayas are open June to September. South India is best October to April. Rajasthan: October to March. Follow the seasons and you’ll have the best riding conditions across the country.
Budget: A 30-day solo trip on a mid-range budget costs around ₹200,000 (~$2,400 / £1,900). That covers bike rental, fuel, food, accommodation and a buffer for breakdowns.
Full planning guide: How to Plan an All-India Motorcycle Trip
Best Motorcycle Routes in India
Leh-Ladakh Circuit (14-21 days)
The big one. Delhi to Manali, over Rohtang, through Keylong and Sarchu to Leh. Then Khardung La, Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake, and back. High altitude, thin air, broken roads and the kind of silence that stays with you. Best: June to September.
Spiti Valley Loop (10-14 days)
Manali to Kaza via Kunzum La. Tabo, Nako, Kalpa, back to Shimla. Remote, raw, less touristed than Ladakh. Some of the most dramatic mountain riding anywhere. Join me on The Great Spiti Valley Motorcycle Adventure
Kashmir and the Himalayan Kingdoms (14 days)
Srinagar to Leh via the Zoji La pass. Kargil, Lamayuru, the ancient monasteries of Ladakh. I led a custom trip through here with two friends and it was the ride of a lifetime. Read about my Himalayan Kingdoms motorcycle adventure
Rajasthan Desert Ride (10-14 days)
Jaipur, Pushkar, Udaipur, Chittorgarh, Jaisalmer, Bikaner. Desert forts, camel carts, cold desert stars and sweeping tarmac. As my friend Iuliia said at the time, “It’s like Mad Max meets Lawrence of Arabia.”
Goa to Gokarna Coastal Ride (3-5 days)
Jungle backroads, clifftop views, sleepy beach towns. Short ride, big atmosphere. I’ve made this trip half a dozen times and I keep coming back. Maybe it’s the break from north Goa, or the smooth asphalt up to the Ghats.
North East India (14-21 days)
Guwahati, Shillong, Cherrapunji, Kaziranga, Tawang. Fewer riders, more adventure, permits required. The last frontier of Indian motorcycle touring.
Royal Enfield Motorcycle Reviews
Real-world reviews based on thousands of kilometres across India.
Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 Review
40 HP, 17-litre tank, 230mm ground clearance. I tested it across Goa and the Western Ghats. If I had to pick one bike for a Himalayan expedition, this is it. It’s what I’m riding on my tours this year.
Royal Enfield Himalayan 411 Review
My long-term review after 15,000 km across Ladakh, Kashmir and Spiti. The OG Himalayan. Proven, reliable, easy to fix anywhere. Still a solid choice if you’re on a budget.
Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350 Review
My eight-year, 30,000 km review. The bike that started my India life. Big tank, wide seat, cruiser bars. Built for long highway days with a full load of luggage.
Royal Enfield Bear 650 Review
Retro scrambler style with a 650cc twin. A comfortable, capable machine for loaded touring. Buy this if you want heritage cool with genuine road ability.
Royal Enfield 350 Review: Classic vs Bullet
The OG. The bike that made India famous for motorcycle travel. A comparison of the Classic and Bullet 350 for anyone choosing between them.
My India Motorcycle Adventures
I’ve been riding India since 2018. These are the trips that shaped this site.
Himalayan Kingdoms: Ladakh and Kashmir
A two-week guided trip I designed for two friends. Custom itinerary across the highest passes in India. Tanglang La, Khardung La, the ancient monasteries, the silence of the Ladakhi plateau. Read the full trip report
All-India Motorbike Tour
My solo ride from Goa to Rishikesh through Rajasthan, central India and the foothills of the Himalayas. Three months, two wheels, one Thunderbird 350. Read the planning guide
Buying a Bullet in Karol Bagh
Before the rides, there was the bike. In 2018 I returned to India with my sister. We flew to Delhi, walked into Karol Bagh, and bought a Royal Enfield. The full story
Riding a Royal Enfield in the Himalayas
The ride that started it all. Rishikesh, the Ganga, thalis, and then north into the mountains on a Thunderbird 350 with a head full of dreams and a fistful of rupees. A trip that changed the course of my life. Read the story
Gear, Guides and Practical Resources
Essential Motorcycle Trip Packing List — What to pack for any terrain, from Himalayan passes to coastal highways.
How to Ride a Motorcycle in India: A Practical Guide for UK, US and EU Riders — Traffic rules, road conditions, what to expect and how to stay safe.
How to Export a Royal Enfield from India — Done with your trip? Here’s how to ship your bike home.
How to Apply for an International Driving Permit — Ten minutes of paperwork that saves hours of hassle with Indian police.
Funny Indian Road Signs — Not a practical guide. Just a collection of the best road signs India has to offer. “After drinking whiskey, driving riskey.”
Guided Motorcycle Tours
I used to resist organised fun. Solo cycling across the world for years will do that. But after leading trips through the Himalayas, I’ve learned that the right group and the right route make the experience better. Shared logistics, shared breakdowns, shared campfire stories.
I run a small number of guided motorcycle tours each year through the Indian Himalayas. Small groups, big routes, proper adventure.
The Great Spiti Valley Motorcycle Adventure
13 days, 1,900+ km through Himachal Pradesh, Spiti, Pangi and beyond. Cliff roads, river crossings, high-altitude chaos. A true Himalayan odyssey.
My Review of Guided Motorcycle Tours in India — What to look for, what to avoid, and whether a guided tour is right for you.
Interested? Download the full Spiti Valley route and itinerary
FAQs: Riding India by Motorcycle
Is India safe for motorcycle travel?
I’ve been riding here since 2018 without serious incident. The roads are unpredictable and the traffic is chaotic. Ride during daylight. Wear proper gear. Trust your instincts. In remote areas, if you break down, someone will stop to help before you’ve even finished swearing.
What’s the best motorcycle for Indian roads?
Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 for the mountains. Thunderbird or Classic 350 for highway touring. Hero Xpulse 200 if you’re on a tight budget and travelling light. Royal Enfields are the default because mechanics and parts are literally everywhere.
When is the best time to ride in India?
Himalayas: June to September. Rajasthan: October to March. South India and Goa: November to February. Get the timing wrong and you’ll spend your trip soaked, snowed in, or melting.
How much does a motorcycle trip in India cost?
Around ₹200,000 ($2,400 / £1,900) for 30 days, mid-range budget. Covers bike rental, fuel, food, accommodation and basics. I’ve met riders doing it on half that. Hostels, dhabas, a cheap bike. It’s doable.
Should I rent or buy a motorcycle in India?
Under 30 days, rent. Simpler, no hassle with registration or selling. Over 30 days, buy a second-hand Royal Enfield in Delhi and sell it when you’re done. It’s cheaper and you get a bike you can set up exactly how you want it.
Do I need an International Driving Permit?
Yes. Takes 10 minutes to apply. Rental companies sometimes skip the check, but police won’t. I’ve seen riders spend hours at checkpoints without one. Not worth the hassle.
Should I join a guided motorcycle tour or ride solo?
Solo gives you freedom and solitude. A guided tour gives you local knowledge, mechanical support and someone to share the campfire with. If it’s your first time in India, a guided tour lets you focus on the riding instead of the logistics.
Start your India motorcycle journey. Browse the blog for more two-wheeled inspiration. Follow along on Instagram or Facebook.