Regular readers of this blog may recall that when I flew from Istanbul to Hanoi, it was my intention to meet up with my old friend, Donna, and our plan was for us to travel together for a few months around South East Asia, Myanmar up to India.
A Tale Of Two Roads
In this final post covering our trip in north Vietnam I want to tell you about two roads. This pair of roads neatly bookend our journey from Dong Van all the way to Cao Bang and the Ban Gioc Waterfall. They also happen to be my favourite in Vietnam.
The One Where I Take A Shit On A Tile
CONTENT WARNING: This post contains a detailed account of a man taking a shit on a tile. If you are sensitive to toilet humour, this post may not be for you. You have been warned.
The Long And Winding Road
Next day the road took us up to Quan Ba. We ate a late lunch and found out from the locals more of the road ahead. From the map it looked like a very steep twisting route. Our thoughts were confirmed and we were advised to stay the night. The journey on a moto would take six hours. We checked in to the most luxurious suite so far. A twin double with a huge window, balcony and a cracking view across the valley. It was a treat to be off the bike so early so I took a shower and set out to explore the town on foot.
Hi Cham Slam
Travelling the North of Vietnam by motorbike is a big deal. It’s a very cool thing to do. Talk to any backpacker, traveller or vagabond worth their salt and they’ll tell you it’s the way to see the North of this beautiful country. The only way, even. Understandably then, when I set out from Mountain View Hostel with my fully laden touring bicycle, eyebrows were raised.
Cycling to Sa Pa
I set forth from Ha Noi with more than a little trepidation. Admittedly, the experience of the last 4,554km cycling from London to Istanbul would serve me well in the next stage of my journey, however the idea of entering a wholly new terrain, culture and continent weighed heavy on my mind.
One week in Hanoi and 48 hours in Saigon
Late on Wednesday afternoon of the twenty eighth of July, at Noi Bai International Airport, there was a large cardboard box, crumpled and open along one edge with bits of sticky tape torn and ripped protruding in all directions. My bike had arrived safely from Istanbul. Thank you Qatar Airways.
London to Istanbul – stage one
Greetings from Hanoi!
You may well l ask how the heck did I get from London to Vietnam so quickly? Allow me to explain. After 56 days, 5 hours and 27 minutes in the saddle, 357 litres of water and 124 bowls of pasta I arrived in Istanbul. For those of you interested in statistics, here’s a few for you; I’ve cycled 4,554km crossed eleven countries and it’s taken 70 days including 14 rest days, some of which were leisurely, some more city break. I’m seven kilos lighter, two inches taller and I’ve grown a beard.
In praise of… Gifting
Five weeks ago in a sleepy Greek town just outside Thessaloniki a guy gestured me over to his white van. “Wo kommst du?” Says he, holding out his hand to be shaken. England, says I, shaking the proffered mitt. “Have a coffee on me” he urged, driving off hurriedly. I step back to the pavement to find a neatly folded 20 euro note in my palm. Generous thinks I, very generous.
A Greek Holiday
Leaving Tirana I headed once again for the coast; the lure of simple navigation, keeping the ocean to the right hand side, the relative ease of camping on the beach; the guarantee of a swim morning, noon and evening and the promise of boundless sunsets made for an easy choice.