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My Life-Affirming Motorcycle Adventure to Ancient Himalayan Kingdoms

A 2760km motorcycle expedition into the Himalayan Kingdoms of Ladakh and Kashmir via Himachal Pradesh

In this comprehensive Himalayan Kingdoms trip report, I share my experience guiding a group motorcycle tour of the Indian Himalayas through the ancient and remote Kingdoms of Ladakh and Kashmir and the gloriously green state of Himachal Pradesh.

adv tour guide james thomas at the baralachala pass 4850m altitude
adv tour guide james thomas at the baralachala pass 4850m altitude

Trip Highlights

Conquering high-altitude passes like Baralacha La, Tanglang La, and Zoji La, facing snowstorms and whiteouts.

Immersing in the vibrant Himalayan cultures of Leh, Kargil, and Kashmir, with a memorable houseboat stay on Dal Lake.

Experiencing ancient Buddhist monasteries at Lamayouru, Mulbekh and Thiksey.

Surviving a wrong turn into the Kashmiri jungle, getting stuck in a riverbed, and being rescued by kind villagers.

Overcoming altitude sickness and mechanical failures while pushing our endurance to the limit.

Celebrating the journey with luxury stays in Manali, Jammu and Delhi, enjoying fine dining and well-earned relaxation.

royal enfield himalayans at zojila pass gateway to the himalayan kingdoms
royal enfield himalayans at zojila pass gateway to the himalayan kingdoms

Himalayan Kingdom Expedition: A Motorcycle Journey Through Ladakh & Kashmir

Riding through the high passes of the Himalayas is every adventure motorcyclist’s dream. This was my first time guiding a group motorcycle tour, and it turned into an unforgettable journey. I was joined by Adam, an experienced track rider but new to India, and Stuart, who was comfortable in India but had never ridden a motorcycle before. For two weeks, we tackled unpredictable weather, high-altitude passes, and the rugged beauty of Ladakh and Kashmir, making memories that would last a lifetime.

roadside chai stop at a dhaba near chandigarh
roadside chai stop at a dhaba near chandigarh

Beginning the Expedition

We flew into Delhi, buzzing with excitement. After picking up our Royal Enfield Himalayan 411 adventure bikes, we set off towards Chandigarh. The journey started with a challenge—monsoon rains hit us hard, forcing us to take shelter in a grimy roadside dhaba. The next morning, we pressed on through Chandigarh in scorching heat, barely avoiding heatstroke as we climbed towards Manali.

stu and adam take a break riding their royal enfield in manali
stu and adam take a break riding their royal enfield in manali

Into the Mountains

Manali was a much-needed respite. We spent a day acclimating, taking a short ride to the entrance of the Atal Tunnel, feeling the first hints of nervous anticipation about the high-altitude roads ahead. That evening, we treated ourselves to a hearty feast of chicken burgers and pizza at a cozy café—our last indulgence before heading deeper into the Himalayas.

3000m acclimatisation ride to atal tunnel in manali en route to the himalayan kingdom of ladakh

3000m acclimatisation ride to atal tunnel in manali en route to the himalayan kingdom of ladakh

Crossing the High Passes

Leaving Manali, we rode towards Sarchu via the Baralacha La pass. At over 16,000 feet, altitude sickness hit us hard. We barely slept, and the thin air made every movement an effort. The next morning, snow began falling, and we braced ourselves for the treacherous ride over Tanglang La. A full whiteout greeted us, making visibility nearly impossible, but we pushed through and finally reached Leh.

A rest day in Leh gave us time to recover and rethink our route. With worsening weather on the Manali-Leh Highway, we decided to reroute towards Kashmir.

adv guide james thomas takes coffee and prayer at the hostel in kargil
adv guide james thomas takes coffee and prayer at the hostel in kargil

The Road to Kargil and Kashmir

Riding to Kargil was a trip highlight. The roads were smooth, the scenery breathtaking, and the ride exhilarating. As we entered Kargil, the hauntingly beautiful call to prayer echoed through the valley, adding to the surreal atmosphere of this mountain outpost.

The next day, we rode into Kashmir, crossing more high passes and stopping at Lamayuru Monastery, one of the oldest in Ladakh. That afternoon, Adam’s bike suffered a mechanical issue, but with some local ingenuity, we got it running again. By evening, we reached Dal Lake, where we stayed on a houseboat with my friend Asif.

helpful villagers rescue our stuck bikes from the kashmiri jungle
helpful villagers rescue our stuck bikes from the kashmiri jungle

Lost in the Kashmiri Jungle

Leaving Kashmir, we rode over Zoji La pass towards Pathankot. Google Maps betrayed us, leading us deep into the Kashmiri jungle, where we found ourselves stuck in a rocky riverbed. Villagers appeared out of nowhere, offering their help, and after a gruelling effort, we escaped the wilderness and made it to Jammu. That night, we treated ourselves to five-star luxury at Lords Inn, just in time to witness the vibrant festivities of the Maharaja Hari Singh.

riding our himalayans towards the zojila pass
riding our himalayans towards the zojila pass

Himachal Pradesh and an Unexpected Detour

The next leg took us towards Dharamshala. Riding dusty highways, we stopped at an Enfield showroom for repairs before climbing towards McLeod Ganj. Stuart had a minor accident, requiring stitches at a local hospital. That night, we shared whiskey, pizza, and good company at a lively hostel, making new friends before resting the next day.

With Stuart heading to Rishikesh via a shared taxi, Adam and I rode through relentless rain to Shimla. Despite the challenge, the misty landscapes were stunning. In Shimla, we browsed a charming bookshop and enjoyed craft beer at a fantastic hotel—a well-earned break before our final stretch.

royal enfield scrambler at sarchu camp near ladakh

royal enfield scrambler at sarchu camp near ladakh

Final Days in the Himalayan Kingdoms

Leaving Shimla, we made our way to Rishikesh, where we reunited with Stuart for a final feast overlooking the mighty Ganges. The journey had been long, tough, and utterly rewarding.

On our last day, we rode back to Delhi, indulging in the luxury of a five-star Taj hotel. A spa, sauna, and an extravagant dinner gave us a chance to reflect on the adventure. The next morning, we boarded our flight home, exhausted but elated.

all smiles stu adam and james pose for a selfie

all smiles; Adam Stuart and James pose for a selfie

Reflections on the Ride

This Himalayan motorcycle expedition was filled with challenges—harsh weather, high altitudes, and unexpected detours—but also moments of sheer joy. From the thrill of conquering high passes to the warmth of strangers who helped us when we were lost, every moment was an experience worth cherishing.

For anyone dreaming of a Ladakh motorcycle trip or a ride through the Himalayan kingdoms, this journey proves that adventure is always around the next bend. Pack your bags, fuel your spirit, and prepare for the ride of a lifetime.

stuart with the RE himalayan adv touring bikes

Himalayan Kingdoms Day-by-Day Route Itinerary

  • Day 1: Delhi → Chandigarh (260 km) – Storms, rain delay, and overnight at a roadside dhaba.
  • Day 2: Chandigarh → Manali (310 km) – Extreme heat, near heatstroke, and arrival at the cool mountain town.
  • Day 3: Manali – Acclimatization ride to Atal Tunnel entrance, evening feast.
  • Day 4: Manali → Sarchu (180 km) – Crossing Baralacha La, altitude sickness sets in.
  • Day 5: Sarchu → Leh (250 km) – Snowstorm over Tanglang La, challenging ride.
  • Day 6: Leh – Rest day and re-planning due to weather changes.
  • Day 7: Leh → Kargil (220 km) – Stunning roads, call to prayer experience.
  • Day 8: Kargil → Dal Lake, Kashmir (230 km) – Visit to Lamayuru Monastery, houseboat stay.
  • Day 9: Dal Lake → Zoji La → Jammu (330 km) – Lost in Kashmiri jungle, rescued by villagers.
  • Day 10: Jammu → McLeod Ganj (230 km) – Stuart’s accident, hospital visit, hostel gathering.
  • Day 11: McLeod Ganj – Rest day, organise logistics for onward travel
  • Day 12: McLeod Ganj → Shimla (230 km) – Rainy, scenic ride, craft beer and bookshop stop.
  • Day 13: Shimla → Rishikesh (280 km) – Arrival and reunion with Stuart.
  • Day 14: Rishikesh → Delhi (240 km) – Final feast, five-star luxury, flight home the next day.
shikaras lined up at dal lake in srinagar kashmir
shikaras lined up at dal lake in srinagar kashmir

Ladakh Kashmir Bike Trip FAQs

Himalayan Kingdoms Motorcycle Tour Package

Is it possible to ride the route described in this journey report?

Yes, I’m offering an improved version of the route this summer. The key upgrade is that we’ll travel clockwise from Chandigarh, up through Kashmir and into Ladakh. This path offers better acclimatisation and a more gradual entry into the mountains.

The Great Himalayan Motorcycle Tour will run June to September with 8 places available on each trip.

adam poses wiith the himalayan touring bikes in himachal pradesh

Which Royal Enfield is best for Ladakh trip?

Choosing the best Royal Enfield for a Ladakh trip involves considering durability, comfort, and altitude performance. The Royal Enfield Himalayan stands out for its off-road capabilities, long suspension travel, and comfortable seating, making it ideal for the challenging terrains of Ladakh.

Read my review of the Royal Enfield Himalayan 411

Its torquey engine copes well with high altitudes. For detailed comparisons and rider experiences, my reviews of the 450 and 411 are worth a read.

Read my review of the Royal Enfield Himalayan 450

Many friends have taken standard Royal Enfield Bullet 350 to Ladakh and they loved it. But it’s best to test-ride the bike before you decide.

However, in my opinion, a proper ADV Touring Bike is the way to go if you want to make the most of the experience.  

the road to kargil from leh is stunning following the river

How much does it cost to go to Kashmir and Ladakh by bike?

The cost of a bike trip to Ladakh can vary widely based on several factors, including the duration of your trip, your choice of accommodations, and whether you’re going solo or with a tour operator.

My guided 14-day trip costs £2950 per person. This includes bike rentals, fuel, food, accommodations, and permit fees.

It’s totally possible to self-guide your trip. It takes a special kind of crazy to wing it as I did in 2018

Here’s my journey report and ultimate guide on How To Plan An All India Motorcycle Trip

pee stop on the ride  to kargil kashmir
pee stop on the ride to kargil kashmir

Is the Kashmir-Ladakh bike trip worth it?

Absolutely! A bike trip to Kashmir and Ladakh is the complete package of raw adventure, pristine nature and cultural immersion. It’s a landscape unlike any other. I find it exhilarating and energising to be in this ancient and special mountain kingdom.

If you’re looking for the trip of a lifetime, then this high-altitude motorcycle tour of the Indian Himalayas is for you

Crossing high-altitude passes like Khardung La and Tanglang La, and witnessing pristine lakes like Pangong Tso are experiences that redefine adventure. It’s not just a trip; it’s a rite of passage for every biker.

roadside rest stop at the mulbekh monastery riding to kargil

Which month is best for Kashmir and Ladakh?

Generally speaking, the ideal time to visit Kashmir and Ladakh is from June to September when the snow has melted and the roads are clear, making it perfect for bikers.

I also visit Kashmir in winter for skiing in Gulmarg. Roads at that time of year are passable only with 4×4 and snow plough.

This slim summer weather window offers accessible routes to all major mountain passes and attractions. It’s also when Ladakh’s vibrant culture comes alive with festivals like the Hemis Festival, adding a rich cultural tapestry to your adventure.

adam makes friends at a restaurant near shimla
adam makes friends at a restaurant near shimla

Final Word

In conclusion, my Himalayan Kingdoms Motorcycle Adventure gave me a real taste of the mountains. It was intensely challenging at times but also incredibly enjoyable. I found a profound connection with nature and culture that was impressive. As Stuart said:

It’s an investment in experiences that last a lifetime

Whether you’re planning a self-supported adventure or joining a guided tour with me, remember it’s not just about the destination but the stories you gather, the challenges you overcome, and the memories you create along the way.

stuart at the zojila pass

Brooke’s Trip Report From The Indian Himalayas on a Royal Enfield Bullet 350

My friend Brooke recently motorcycled the Indian Himalayas on her Royal Enfield Bullet. This classic Indian Himalaya motorbike itinerary included all the highlights of the high mountains of the far north.

Interested in a longer bike trip? Read my motorcycle tour of India ride report.

Brooke began her journey in Delhi, then up to Rishikesh to Leh and flew home from Leh

A Classic Delhi to Ladakh Motorcycle Ride Itinerary (14-day one-way itinerary)

  • Delhi to Rishikesh, explore the city and rest
  • Rishikesh to Manali, taking in the scenic routes

  • Rest day in Manali, bike checks and permits

  • Manali to Sarchu, crossing Baralacha La
  • Sarchu to Leh, via Tanglang La
  • Explore Leh, Nubra Valley, and Pangong Lake
  • Fly home from Leh
  • riding down to sonamarg valley from zojila pass in the Himalayan Kingdom of Kashmir

    I can not describe how epic the journey was but what I know is that I am somehow sad it is over even though my body doesn’t want to sit on the bike for a few days ! Over the highest passes , through the snow, great friends , emotional and physical challenges. It took me 6 years to make the ride and it felt like it lasted for one thousand years . Thank you to everyone who supported me, encouraged me, lent me warm jackets and also those who got me drunk after a long days ride. @bdeva23

    high altitude motorbike touring india
    high altitude motorbike touring indian himalayas

    Ready to join a guided group this summer?

    Learn more about The Great Himalayan Motorcycle Tour and book your place

    Have you visited the Himalayan Kingdoms? Share your stories in the comments. 

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