Last checked: November 2026. Permit rules in the Indian Himalaya change often. Check the official sources linked below before you travel.
TLDR: Foreign riders need a Protected Area Permit for the protected parts of Ladakh (Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri) and for the protected stretch of Kinnaur and Spiti. Indian nationals no longer need an Inner Line Permit for Ladakh’s protected areas. In Kinnaur and Spiti, foreigners must travel in a group of two or more, sponsored by a recognised Indian travel agency.
Ladakh permits
Foreign nationals
- You need a permit to visit Ladakh’s notified protected areas, including Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake, Tso Moriri and the Aryan villages.
- In 2021 its validity was extended from seven days to 15 days.
- Permits are checked on the road, including on the Changthang route through Upshi and Kharu, and at North Pullu on the way to Nubra.
- As of August 2026, Ladakh’s administration was discussing a single permit covering most of Ladakh for foreigners. That change had not been brought in.
- On my tours, we collect the Ladakh permits in Manali before riding north.
Indian nationals
Since August 2021, Indian nationals, including domestic tourists, no longer need an Inner Line Permit for Ladakh’s protected areas. Carry a valid photo ID.
Kinnaur and Spiti permits
Foreign nationals
- No foreigner can enter or stay in the protected area of Kinnaur and Spiti without a Protected Area Permit.
- Foreigners must travel in a group of two or more, sponsored by a recognised Indian travel agency, with a set itinerary.
- Group visits are allowed for up to 30 days.
- Permits can be issued by the Ministry of Home Affairs, Indian missions abroad, the Government of Himachal Pradesh, the district authorities in Kinnaur and Lahaul and Spiti, and the SDMs at Pooh, Kalpa and Kaza.
- Without a permit, foreigners can still visit Kaza, according to the Kinnaur district administration.
- On my Spiti tour, we stop over in Reckong Peo to meet a local guide and arrange the permit.
Everyone
- Carry a valid photo ID in the notified areas.
- Military and security sites are off-limits, and you must not photograph them.
- The roads to Shipki La and Kaurik from NH-22 are closed to travellers.
Riding with a guide
On a guided tour, the operator usually handles permits. On my tours they are arranged as part of the trip: in Reckong Peo for Spiti, and in Manali for Ladakh. See The Great Spiti Valley Motorcycle Adventure and the Kashmir Ladakh Loop, or read Spiti vs Ladakh to choose.
Planning your own ride? Start with India by Motorcycle and how to ride a motorcycle in India.